The Way of the Gentleman

There is something almost anachronistic about James Lawley's project. Through his Gent Z videos and his Gentlemen's Collective, Lawley is attempting to resurrect an idea that much of modern culture has either forgotten or reduced to parody: the gentleman. Not simply the man who owns an expensive suit, knows which fork to use at dinner and can distinguish a good whisky from a bad one, but a man governed by standards of conduct. Lawley speaks about manners, style, grooming and etiquette, but underneath these outward forms lies something considerably more important: self-respect, discipline, social competence, integrity and the conviction that respect is something a man should earn through the way he lives.

There is certainly an affluent flavour to some of the enterprise. Lawley's private Gentlemen's Collective advertises dinners, cigar evenings, international networking, courses and a global community of men interested in style and self-improvement. It currently describes itself as bringing together more than 180 men across more than 20 countries. That world can easily conjure images of leather armchairs, tailored jackets, expensive watches and men who have considerably more disposable income than the average young fellow struggling to pay his rent.

But it would be a mistake to confuse the packaging with the principle. A man does not need a thousand dollars, a Savile Row suit or membership of a private club to become a gentleman. Indeed, Lawley himself apparently did not emerge from some aristocratic English world of inherited refinement. He has described a working-class upbringing and a youthful period as a long-haired heavy-metal musician before deliberately remaking himself. The important idea is therefore available to the labourer in work boots just as readily as the banker in a three-piece suit. The gentleman is ultimately a moral ideal before he is an aesthetic one.

That distinction matters because the gentleman is often dismissed as a relic of an obsolete class system. The word evokes Victorian drawing rooms, country clubs, officers' messes and a social order in which one's manners and accent revealed one's place in the hierarchy. If that were all the gentleman amounted to, there would be little reason to resurrect him. We have no need to reconstruct the British class system merely to teach young men how to behave.

Yet the older concept contained something much deeper. The gentleman exercised restraint because uncontrolled appetites were not admirable. He kept his word because his word reflected his character. He was courteous to people who could do nothing for him because courtesy was not merely a transaction. He was expected to protect rather than bully the weak, to remain composed under pressure, to accept responsibility for his failures, to acquire competence and to make himself useful. He did not need to announce constantly that he deserved respect. His behaviour was supposed to make the case for him.

Lawley makes precisely this distinction when discussing respect. Ordinary civility should be extended to everyone, but the deeper respect associated with being a good father, employer, employee or man must be earned through conduct. That is almost revolutionary advice in a culture increasingly organised around the assertion of identities and entitlements. Instead of asking the world to validate you, become the sort of man whose conduct commands respect.

This is also why the gentleman offers a better model of masculinity than either of two alternatives increasingly presented to young men. On one side stands the emasculated man, taught to regard traditionally masculine characteristics with suspicion. Aggression, competitiveness, stoicism, ambition, physical strength, hierarchy and male bonding become potentially "toxic," leaving boys with an extensive catalogue of things they supposedly should not be but precious little account of what they positively ought to become.

On the other side stands the internet caricature of the alpha male. He has the cars, the women, the money, the muscles and the aggressively advertised indifference to everyone else's opinion. Masculinity becomes domination. Women become trophies, money becomes the scoreboard and social life becomes an endless hierarchy in which every man must establish that he is above somebody else.

The gentleman provides an escape from both models. He need not apologise for being masculine, but neither does he have to turn masculinity into adolescent swagger. Strength is valuable because it permits protection and endurance. Courage matters because difficult things must sometimes be confronted. Competition can make a man better, but winning does not excuse dishonour. Sexual attraction is perfectly natural, but women are human beings rather than points accumulated on a scoreboard. Money is useful and achievement admirable, but neither determines a man's worth.

Interestingly, Lawley has explicitly positioned his work as an alternative to some of the harsher online masculinity culture associated with figures such as Andrew Tate. He has said that when he began making videos he saw a gap between older men's style channels and a new generation consuming much more aggressive material about masculinity. He wanted something more measured: traditional masculinity combined with taste, self-respect and ordinary social competence.

That last quality may be more important than it sounds. Something strange has happened to male social life. Many young men can navigate extraordinarily complicated digital environments while finding the prospect of walking alone into a bar and starting a conversation terrifying. Lawley has attracted attention for teaching precisely such apparently elementary skills. Reports on his work describe him showing young men how to go somewhere alone, dress properly, introduce themselves and speak to strangers. His broader message encourages men to become something like Renaissance men, combining physical fitness with intellectual development, cultural interests and social confidence.

Our grandfathers would probably be astonished that such things need tutorials. But that is precisely why the revival of the gentleman matters. Social skills once transmitted almost invisibly through families, neighbourhoods, churches, workplaces, sporting clubs and associations increasingly have to be consciously reconstructed. A boy watched his father greet another man, saw how adults behaved at dinner, learned when to speak and when to remain silent, discovered that arriving late inconvenienced other people, and absorbed innumerable little rules without anybody formally announcing that a lesson in masculinity was taking place.

The collapse of these informal institutions leaves the smartphone to perform the education instead. That is a disastrous substitute. The algorithm rewards exhibitionism, outrage, narcissism and extremes because quiet decency does not generate many clicks. Nobody goes viral because he arrived ten minutes early, kept a promise, helped an elderly stranger, controlled his temper, worked diligently when nobody was watching and went home to fulfil his responsibilities. Yet those apparently boring virtues are the foundations upon which functioning lives and societies depend.

The recovery of the gentleman should therefore begin by stripping away the class associations that obscure his universal relevance. You do not need a cigar evening in Manhattan. You can begin tomorrow morning. Get out of bed when you said you would. Make yourself presentable. Speak clearly. Look people in the eye. Keep your promises. Do some physical training. Read something difficult. Learn practical skills. Control your appetites rather than allowing them to control you. Treat women courteously without becoming servile. Treat other men as potential friends rather than permanent competitors. Admit mistakes without collapsing into self-pity. Pay your debts. Help somebody who cannot repay you. Defend yourself when necessary but do not go looking for unnecessary fights. None of this requires wealth.

Indeed, there is something faintly absurd about the idea that gentlemanliness could belong exclusively to the rich. History is filled with wealthy scoundrels and poor gentlemen. A labourer who keeps his word, supports his family, dresses as well as his means permit, treats others with dignity and maintains his composure under adversity may possess more of the substance of a gentleman than a millionaire sitting in a private club boasting about his latest acquisition.

Clothes nevertheless have their place. Lawley is right not to dismiss them as superficial. How a man presents himself communicates something both to other people and to himself. Dressing appropriately signals that an occasion matters. Grooming suggests that one has sufficient self-command to attend to oneself. The object is not vanity but order. A man who has ceased caring whether he is clean, presentable or appropriately dressed may sometimes have ceased caring about rather more than his clothes.

But the suit must never become the man. A perfectly tailored coward remains a coward. An immaculately groomed liar remains a liar. A man can know every rule of etiquette and still abandon his family, cheat his business partners and treat waiters contemptuously. In such a case the old clothes merely disguise the absence of the old virtues.

That is why the gentleman deserves revival now. Men are not suffering from a shortage of products marketed as masculinity. They can buy supplements, watches, cars, tactical equipment, gym memberships and online courses promising to turn them into dominant males. What is missing is a coherent ideal of masculine character that demands something of them while also assuring them that masculinity itself is worth cultivating.

The gentleman supplies one. He tells a young man that there is nothing shameful about becoming strong, competent, ambitious and courageous, but that strength carries obligations. He tells him that self-respect precedes demanding respect from others. He tells him that freedom without self-command degenerates into appetite. He tells him that masculinity does not consist in frightening weaker people but in becoming sufficiently formidable that one does not need to prove it constantly.

Above all, the gentleman provides an answer to a question modern culture has become strangely reluctant to answer: what should a man aspire to be? Not merely rich. Not merely sexually successful. Not merely muscular. Not merely harmless. Not merely sensitive. Not merely dominant. A man should aspire to become someone who can be relied upon.

That is the heart of the gentlemanly ideal, and it is why the gentleman is very far from dead. If anything, conditions have become unusually favourable for his return. In an age of sloppiness, good presentation stands out. In an age of narcissism, courtesy stands out. In an age of unreliability, keeping one's word stands out. In an age of digital isolation, the man capable of walking into a room, introducing himself and conducting a conversation stands out. In an age of permanent grievance, the man who assumes responsibility for himself stands out.

James Lawley may package some of this for an affluent audience, and there is nothing inherently wrong with running a business around people who want the clubs, dinners and networking that accompany it. But the most important part of his message cannot be placed behind a membership fee because it was never his property in the first place. It belongs to an old civilisational tradition of masculine character.

Young men do not need permission to reclaim it. The road back to manhood may turn out not to require inventing some entirely new masculinity for the twenty-first century. We may already possess much of what we need in an old word we discarded too casually. Young men; become a gentleman!